Rear Suspension Overhaul Part V: e36 m3 Halfshaft/axle CV Boot Rebuild.

Rebuilding the half shafts on the rear of my e36 M3 proved slightly more difficult than I estimated it to be. I took a look at Calvin's pictures one more time and thought doesn't look that hard. There are a few areas that you should know and might already know about if you read any posts about rebuilding these things. I did not read. I just looked at pictures.

Problem #1: OEM GKN Loebro CV Boot Kit - CLAMPS WRONG SIZE

You probably have these boxes sitting around waiting one day to rebuild your axles. Guess what the clamps will not fit and are not the right size. Maybe some do, maybe some don't but multiple people online have had the same problem. OE BMW might be the right size but OEM GKN Loebro is the wrong size. Don't try for 3 hours super confused trying to force them on over the boots or take them to a shop where the guy just looks at you and says, "these are the wrong size, use an adjustable clamp, we don't even carry this style anymore." They are just the wrong size. You need (2) "large" adjustable clamps and (2) "small" adjustable clamps. Just trust me. Go ahead and get all the way there, find out the clamps are too small, stop right there, go get the adjustable ones. They don't even sell the clamping kind anymore. I looked for them.

Problem #2: Tools

You'll need at least two tools to do this correctly. One crimper to clamp down the OEM style clamp that actually fit and one tool to turn the adjustable clamps. The adjustable clamp is supposed to be superior and holds tighter. Don't spend 2 hours with make shift tools. Just buy something off Amazon.

OTC is a fine brand. This one worked for me.

It's pretty simple to use. I watched this video for instance.

I bought the old style CV crimper off ebay. It was something like this.

Problem #3: Paying attention to how parts go back together. Take pictures.

Just in case you have all your balls, cage and inner race laying on a table and can't remember how it's supposed to go back together here is a correct picture.

And an INCORRECT PICTURE. DON'T PUT IT BACK TOGETHER LIKE THIS. For whatever reason the inner race fit in the cage with the balls but did not move at all. I thought something was wrong, went back to some pictures I took and realized I was super wrong. If I would have left it like this and bolt it back up, bad things would happen.

If I would've had all that information then I would've been good to go and could rebuild these things like a pro in a matter of a few hours.

Obviously use the bentley for the specifics but basically once the axles are removed from the diff you can removed the dust shield with a screw driver and a hammer.


























The outer CV joint does not come apart. You can remove the inner CV joint housing from the axle with a big hammer and a solid surface or a press.

I cleaned all the parts with kerosene. You could use gasoline or any super flammable liquid. Just a matter of price really. And disposal.

Since the outer portion cannot be disassembled, let it soak in your thinner of choice until most of the grease has dissolved. Then pack it with new grease. That's the best you can do.

This is the correct orientation of the inner race and outer housing as shown above. The axle is being held in a vise as I use the CV clamp tool to twist up the adjustable clamps. Obviously pack this bitch with grease before throwing on the dust cap. Use loctite on the splines when you press it back together. Put the snap ring back into place. 96-99 models have a small ring that holds this all together. 95 m3 axles are slightly splined to hold the housing up.

Here are the two axles finally built up after halting and having to go get proper tools etc. Yippie next time won't be such a PITA.