Oil: Total Quartz Synthetic 10w50
I finally got around to changing the oil last week. The previous owner was running 15w40 Rotella-T Diesel non-synthetic oil. At first I was like wtf? I then read some post on bimmerforums and I guess the forum fan boys tend to use this stuff because it keeps the vanos unit from being so loud. Eh...I'd rather run synthetic. I chose the 10w50 based on price and it being heavier than a normal weight oil but not super heavy. It was around $30 for 5L from RMeuropean. No tax, no shipping! Here's a pic of the old shit.
Here's a pic of the new shit!
Having just bought the M3 and only having one garage/carport spot, I had to get the e30 buttoned up and out of the driveway. It's on a steep incline so pushing it in and out wasn't really an option. Here's some pics of how the e30 sits right now.
Onto the oil change. There is no reason really to write a DIY on the e36 oil change being that it is the easiest thing on the planet. The oil filter is positioned up instead of down on the top side of the engine. It's the silver casing that looks like an oild filter would be inside.
I didn't have any under panel, and I'm not sure if the under panel even blocks the drain plug. Regardless, steps are drain oil, remove the filter cap and replace the filter, replace the o-rings, close everything up and fill it up. Torque the oil filter housing bolt and drain bolt both to 18 ftlbs.
New filter ready to go in.
Here's a nice tutorial pic of removing the little o-ring on the bottom of the oil filter cap screw.
And a pic of me using a funnel.
I asked the PO when he changed the oil last and he said 135k. I didn't really want to take any chances plus I feel better now that I know what oil is in there. I filled it up to 6.5L like the manual calls for. It was where it needs to be on the dipstick. I've heard of running more oil for the track. I might decide to do that later. Either way this blog is more of evidence of the maintenance done to the car when a tutorial isn't really necessary!
No comments:
Post a Comment