It runs! CPS Sensor is the Culprit

Date: 05/10/11
Mileage: 147,000

So real quick, my no-start issue was in fact the crank position sensor. I ordered a new sensor from BMA Parts. I went with a Meyle over the original AB Electronic. Pelican had rated AB as poor and I've had good luck with Meyle. First thing I did was measure the ohm resistance on the Melye sensor and it was around 740. 200 more than the 540 rating in the Bentley....I have no idea what that means but it is functional unlike the old one.

Getting to this thing sucks. There is no real easy DIY on this thing. I was working with little to no day light left and I needed to drive my car in the morning so I used the, "Git 'er done," method.

Basically I moved the coolant expansion tank out of the way and pulled the radiator hose off of the thermostat housing. About a half liter of coolant will come out. Oh well. This gave me enough room to get a hex head socket in there and get that bitch out.

Only problem was that it had made a home in there. I would have used a pry bar to remove it if I had one. It took about 15 minutes of PB Blaster and yanking on it to get it out. There was just no good way to get a grip on it from that angle. Like I said, "Git er done," method.

Once I finally pulled it out I was able to put the new one in easily enough and torque it down. I rerouted the wire a little differently because I did not remove the t-stat housing which it goes under. I will tiddy everything up when I do the water pump, but good news, it fired right up!

New Knock Sensors, New Fuel Pump, Still no start, CPS?

So I've learned some things this week that I pretty much already knew but hadn't yet experienced on this car. This is really no way to diagnose a car, but hey, it's a good way to learn and the car needed some of these parts anyway.

The first thing I realized is that the knock sensors will not cause a no start situation. They will cause your car to run horribly but your car should still start. When I first broke down I read the codes and the 1226 code must have still been stored in the memory of the computer from months ago. I took it as being the reason for the no-start. Ok $130 later, I've learned that. Car still didn't start.

New vs Old

I then moved on to the fuel pump. I couldn't hear it turning on and I had ran the tank down pretty low a couple times the previous weeks. I figured that's it! So I stubbornly ignored the fact that just because your fuel pump isn't turning on doesn't mean it's bad. In the Bentley is describes how to do this. There is a way to jump the terminals at the relay box but I was not successful there in turning the pump on. I figured to replace it anyway since it has probably never been replaced in 147k miles. I figured it was probably a good time to replace it if the car is chipped and seeing the track.  Could've saved me a fuel pump if I were able to activate it at the relay box but I got a smoking deal on the pump and it couldn't hurt to replace.

So he we are, new pump, new knock sensors and still no power getting to the DME to activate the pump and ignition coils. What else could it be? The only CEL I'm getting at this point is 1281 - No power to DME. I did some research and forgot the the crank position sensor (CPS) is a main thoroughfare in the power flow for ignition. A sensor I was aware of but something I had forgot to look at first in my trial and error diagnostic ways.

I finally got what I hope to be a solid test on the CPS sensor. Bentley corrected value for the ohm reading is 540 ohm +- 10%. I got the contacts on there as solid as I could and the meter only read 1 ohm.  This has to be it! I know that ohm meter works because I used it to test some injectors.

I'll post a story on the KS replacement as well as the fuel pump replacement after this whole saga gets ironed out. Stay Tuned.

CEL 1226: Failed Knock Sensor and Stranded on the 110

So I had been getting the 1226 Check Engine Light intermittently here and there. It first showed up after a long period of rain. The light was on solid for about a month without any ill effects to the engine. The light then disappeared only to reappear briefly between 1st and 2nd gear shifts. As the light would come on the engine would cut out on throttle. The light would go away after lifting.

I had read that the 1226 code (Failed Knock Sensor #2) could mean both knock sensors as well as the o2 sensor and sometimes a fault in the alternator. Well either way my car completely died on the freeway Saturday on the way to my Improv show at the UCB. The ignition had completely cut out and sure enough the same code came up after a quick stomp test.

I was able to get a tow to my show just in the nick of time. AAA dropped it off at a gas station near by. My show went well and I then called them again to tow it to my house. 2 tows in one day. Good thing I have AAA plus rated for 4 tows a year up to 100 miles each.

I ordered two new sensors from RMeuropean and I'm going to tackling this tomorrow. Looks to be a little difficult if you don't remove the intake manifold. We will see.

Oil Change 146,708 miles

Changed the oil with Lubro-Moly Synthetic 5w30. It was a little cheaper than the Total Quartz and I wanted to try another brand. It is made in Germany and is an approved BMW oil so you can't really go wrong. Engine might sound a little quieter but I can't really tell. It always seems a little better after an oil change regardless.

Coolant Expansion Tank Replacement

Alright, so it's been a long long time since I did any real car maintenance or mods. The good thing is that the M3 has been pretty much running the last 6 months without a hitch. A few things need addressing and I am stock piling a lot of parts so I'm going to start things back up with a few easy things. Also blogger has a sweet new format, shit just got real!

Earlier this week I noticed I was losing coolant too quickly to not address it. I was getting the, "Low coolant level," warning on the OBC every other day after adding 4-6 oz here and there. I figured it was from the t-stat housing or water pump having noticed a little drip from there awhile ago and assumed the issue was just getting worse.

When I went to take a closer look I noticed spots of coolant all over the shock tower, radiator hoses, valve cover and fan shroud. Uh-oh, did a little more sleuthing and found a small crack fizzing on the expansion tank. Having just replaced that tank last year I was a little pissed. I called RMeuropean to see if there was a warranty and there was! I had 10 days left. They sent me a new one and told me to ship back the defective unit.

So here you can see where the coolant was spraying out everywhere.

Level is a little low

Removing this thing pretty much sucks. I ASSUME it's easier if you remove the fan shroud and everything else, but the way it is hooked up, I can't imagine so. The hoses are all hidden and fit in only one direction. It's a pain in the ass. You have to be pretty patient. Other than patience, removing it is rather simple.

There is a level sensor on the bottom as well as the main hose. There is a overflow smaller hose connected at the top. Once you remove the vent screw, which is brittle and plastic, you can pull that clip out and it should free the tank up. Then you can pull it around to give you room to access the hose clamps. Like I said, accessing the hose clamps require midget hands and luck that they are pointing the right direction to get a socket or screwdriver to turn them.

Here's the old tank after getting it out. You can see the little crack there that has nothing to do with the molding flash. I suppose it was just a bad part. It was enough to fizz out coolant everywhere at high pressure.

Here's the new one. Same thing, hopefully no crack. The BEHR unit doesn't fit exactly perfect and it's off white. The BMW brand tank is $78 vs $41 for the BEHR. It may or may not be worth the extra $40 to get the BMW one. Either way this one is warrantied for 1 year. Yippie.

So I managed to over torque the plastic vent screw upon reinstallation. There is a little o-ring that I was missing so when I saw coolant leaking around the screw I tightened it some more, good idea right? Well that ripped the little plastic head off with the screw embedded in it's home. Luckily it was Friday and the New Century BMW dealer is right down the street. I always reserve the opportunity to pay 250% mark-up for emergencies or urgent matters. I felt like I could afford a screw.

This image shows a $1.50 screw for $3.59 as well as the only time known to man that an easy-out has ever worked. There it is, documented, the first ever successful attempt with an easy out. RMeuropean sells a brass version of this screw that I may have to pick up.

Alright, so that's it. Here it is installed all nice and clean without leaks. Woo!

Changing it up! Toyota Land Cruiser 2UZ-FE Timing Belt Change

So I had a little different job to do last weekend. It didn't involve a BMW, but I was up to the challenge. My doctor has a 1998 Land Cruiser that needed some preventive maintenance. The dealer in Santa Monica was quoting him around $3000 for a timing belt change and some other maintenance. He knew that I like working on cars and well, long story short, I have a Land Cruiser in my garage Saturday morning!

My initial inspection didn't yield anything to out of the ordinary for a Toyota with 187,000 miles on the clock. Everything worked fine! No but really, all I noticed was that the brakes needed to be bled and the alignment was off. Other than that the car drove and handling perfectly.

The 2UZ-FE V8 motor has a rubber timing belt which needs to be changed every 90k miles. This was my main task. I looked up the parts which might as well need to be changed and ordered them from BMA Parts. There are similar sets on ebay, but they are $240 and use the cheap GMB Korean brand parts. I ordered only OE parts which came on the car from the factory for the same price from BMA. I decided at 187,000 to throw in the belt tensioner for another $30 just to be safe. I also like to use the OEM brand coolant whenever possible. I found it for $20 a gallon from ETY Parts. He misquoted me on the phone so discount for me! Usually it's about $26.

I stand by both BMA and ETY. They are both stand up parts stores and can usually match or beat any price. ETY is a little smaller and I like to support them if they can give me the best price. Sometime they can't, but that's the breaks. If you're in the midwest FAP99 seems to be the best price.

Here's a shot of the parts.

So before I did anything I did a little research. I downloaded PDF versions of the Toyota Service Manual which contained all the information necessary to do the job including the tightening torques. I also found this DIY which assisted me when I needed to hear the same directions from an ordinary human.

So let's get started with a few images and my take on the job. Here's a shot of the engine bay and the big v8 were dealing with. Oh, I should mention, this thing was wall to wall, end to end in my 9x20 garage. If you were fat, you wouldn't have been able to do the job in this garage. It was tight.

Step one, take off the skid plate and lower covers and drain the radiator.


I would've drained the coolant from the block, but having only met this car 15 minutes prior, I wasn't able to locate the drain plugs. I went the way of the DIY written above and caught the coolant as I removed each essential part. Honestly too messy of a way to do it, but it works.

Next step remove the beauty cover.

Remove the air intake system.

Now you should be able to remove the radiator and shroud. The A/C lines connect to the shroud, but you can just unhook them and work around it. I had no intentions of releasing freon to the atmosphere and re-charging the system so they just live in space there. It was easy enough to work around.

Remove the shroud bolts, move it back and remove the radiator first. Then pull the shroud out. Next up....FAN CLUTCH! F@4#%#$!

Fan clutches are never easy to remove. The pulley was slipping under the tension of the drive belt so keeping it attached didn't do anything. I removed the drive belt by turning the left hand thread tensioner pulley clockwise.

There are four bolts holding the clutch to the pulley. There was no information about how to remove these in the DIY or SM. I had to immobilize the clutch somehow. I devised a pretty easy method using the old drive belt.

With the drive belt removed, double it up and put a small socket in the end. Something that won't fit between the crank and the fan clutch pulley. Wrap it around the fan pulley like so and as you crank down on the bolts the socket between the rubber will get sandwiched and prevent the pulley from moving. Worked pretty well!

That took a little bit of ingenuity and trial and error before something worked, but I was soon flying high having defeated another fan clutch. The fan clutch on my e30 was an all day event. That's another story.

So this is about what you should be staring at once all that is done.

Now you can get down to business. Remove the right hand timing belt cover. Right and Left as if you were driving.

Remove the left-hand timing belt cover. There are a couple more items on this side. You must remove the oil cooler tube running down directly in front of it. If you didn't drain the coolant from the block, this is one of those messy moments. Also remove the idler pulley.

After those covers and tube are removed it's time to remove the fan bracket. This was another one of those WTF moments. It wasn't clear in the DIY or the SM how to remove this thing. There are 4 total obvious bolts and nuts on the front. In the SM it says remove the A/C compressor. In the DIY it says you just need to remove 2 bolts that share the A/C bracket, but I mistook that as 2 of the four on front. Either way the two bolts are facing the left wheel well and hold the A/C compressor to the fan bracket. One is easy to remove, the other one required me to remove the oil filter to get a wrench in there.

Once all 6 of those bolts/nuts are removed you should be able to whack the fan bracket with a rubber mallet to bust it from it's nestled sleep.

On the opposite side, remove the power steering pump and alternator to remove the tensioner pulley. The p/s pump and alternator simply lay on the support beneath them without too much of a problem.

Now with all that off you can check to make sure the engine is at TDC on the compression cycle. The marks on the front and rear of the cam line up with the rear cover.


The notch on the crank will line up with "0" on the lower cover. I somehow stopped the car in the garage at TDC on the compression cycle. I might have had to turn the crank 10 degrees. Spooky.....

Now it's time to remove the crank bolt and crank pulley. Without a tool to hold the crank, I'm not sure how I would have got it off. I used an impact wrench. Yee Haw! After that I used my lifetime warranty Sears Craftsman crank pulley tool for $20. I had heard the harbor freight ones break, and well if this one breaks, for the same price, it's warranted for life.

I hadn't used one before and just looking at pictures on the internet didn't explain everything to me. The crank pulley has threaded holes around the inside for the use of tools to remove it or hold it still. Find the correct bolts that thread into those holes and then leverage the yoke against them to pull the crank off. The bolts supplied in the Craftsman kit I bought were the correct metric pitch and size.

Remove the cover behind the pulley and you'll see we have everything at the TDC marks ready to remove the belt. Before doing that make sure to mark the belt at the points on the two cams and the one on the lower side of the crank. Even though the new belt comes with marks on it, it's a good idea just to double check, transfer the points and count the ribs to make sure the new belt is in the same position as the old one.

Remove the rusty belt tensioner to release the tension on the belt. Although super rusty, it still held it's tension and technically didn't need to be replaced.

With the tension off the belt, you can simply slide it off. About an hour before I got to this point, I started to realize none of these bolts had ever been turned in the 12 years/187,555 miles of this Land Cruiser's life. The timing belt is a maintenance that is supposed to be done every 90k miles and I was starting to see that this belt had never been changed!

See all those little cracks next to that big one? Those were everywhere. I'm no timing belt inspector expert, but I would say it was time. It may have been good for another 6000 or 60k miles, but still, although not a terrible separation, a crack in a timing belt is never good.

Also you can see the water pump gasket is leaking. This was one of the original inspections made by the Toyota dealership. Looks like we found it.


Now remove the upper cooling pipe that houses the thermostat. It is a silicone seal and it's a bitch to get off. I sprayed some PB Blaster in the area where the o-ring connects and life became a little easier.

My experience in the past is that the thermostat either works or it doesn't. If it works, no need to replace it. The chances of getting a new one that is faulty or opens at 10 degrees hotter than the one you're replacing is as probable as one failing so I left it alone.

I was very impressed with Japanese quality by now. VW 1.8t motors grenade under 60k with their timing belt issues. BMW e30 m20 motors are littered on Craigslist with broken timing belts. It may just be a matter of time before we start seeing Tundra/Land Cruiser's for sale with busted belts, but if it's not going to go at 187k, I'd say that's pretty good.

Granted it could be the low RPMs or driving style, but it could also just be the design and engineering of the parts and the motor. From my prior experience with German cars, for a car to run this well, this long and for not a single bolt to have been turned past the radiator for 187k miles really says something about quality.

Alright, with the upper thermostat housing removed it should look something like this. All that is left to do it remove the water pump. This is another time when removing the coolant from the block would've been advantageous.

So now everything is removed. It is just a matter of putting everything back in the reverse order of tear down and torquing it to spec. The torque specs are available in the Toyota SM which I downloaded from PDF Town.

Get your new water pump and put some RTV around the inside of the gasket on both sides for good measure. I noticed the OEM gasket had a silicone seal on it as well. I ordered an Aisin water pump which is the original pump that came with the car with a metal gasket.

Move that into place and be sure to replace the o-ring that attaches to it. You can see it on the pipe connecting to the water pump in this picture. It is a 3/32" thickness. I'm not sure the OD or ID, but I matched it up at the hardware store. It is most likely available from the parts store, but I forgot to order it.

Next, the seal between the thermostat housing and water pump is silicone only. Dig out that trough and clean it up.

Same as before, fill the trough with silicone and put on the new o-ring. This o-ring I ordered from BMA. It was the "water pump housing o-ring." I lubricated it with soapy water as instructed by the manual.


Now you can put the idler pulley and idler roller back on. The bearings I removed were still in decent shape, but I didn't want to take any chances at 187k miles. I replaced them with JP Koyo Bearings. The same that were on there.

Use a little loctite on the ends. The manual calls for blue 242. I only had red 262. I didn't over do it.

Once that is all set you can slid the timing belt back into place. This is always a dicey moment. Just to be sure I counted the ribs on the old belt between points twice and made sure the new belt was marked correctly. I'm sure there is QC on the belts, but you never know and it doesn't take much time to make sure your engine is timed correctly. I did the same for the ribs between the cam and the crank marker.


I had to gently move the cam on the left side to release some of the tension to insure everything lined up. These pictures show the cycle starting to turn a bit, but the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the cam. That's what's important. Here is the little white point on the crank.

Once you have triple checked that everything looks good you can re-install the tensioner.

From here I put the sprocket and lower timing cover back on. I slid the crank pulley back on and threaded the crank bolt. This is where you rotate the engine two full revolutions to make sure the marks on the cams line up with the marks on the covers and same for the crank notch to be at, "0."

At first I was looking for the marks on the timing belt to line up with the marks on the cam, but those are only for installation only. You're only looking at the marks on the cam. I noticed that the belt was rubbing on something and came to realize I installed the sprocket backwards. I took off the crank and cover and flipped that around, turned 2 more revolutions and everything was fine. Make sure that everything feels smooth, don't just assume you've timed it correctly.

So that's about it. Put everything back the way it came off and fill it up with some coolant. The crank pulley bolt calls for 181 ft-lbs. of force. I snugged it up with my impact gun which exceeds that torque at max. I don't recommend the impact gun for installation of anything, but in this case I used it for extra insurance.

In the DIY, the author talks about jacking the front of the vehicle up to burp the system. I was able to fill the radiator with about 2.5 gallons of coolant. I ran the car with the heater on while revving it to about 2000-2500 rpm until the thermostat opened and moved some of the coolant around. I would carefully remove the radiator cap to expel air until only liquid would come out. The heater should be blowing hot by now as well. You can turn off the car and make sure it's full. The expansion tank will read right in the middle between LOW and FULL.

I also cleaned up the cosmetic valve cover.

So there you have it. Took me about 2 days 14 hours with breaks. I got stuck at the fan clutch and fan bracket. I also had to go out and find the correct o-ring. If I had to do it again, I would say it's about an 8 hour job.

I hadn't done anything like this before on a Japanese car, but I figured being used to German cars, it should be pretty straight forward. I had done the same job on an e30 and although being a little weary about quite a job on a different car, my doctor's trust and a little naivety allowed me to think positively and do the job. More often than not I won't approach something like this unless it's safe for me and I know all the ins and outs. I think it was just the right amount of risk to push myself and believe in my abilities.

Overall, working on a Japanese car with a huge engine bay was a treat. The manuals and engineering are very smart. Nothing is over engineered or laborious which can be common to some German cars. It is just the right amount of simplicity and minimalism to make something work.