The first thing I realized is that the knock sensors will not cause a no start situation. They will cause your car to run horribly but your car should still start. When I first broke down I read the codes and the 1226 code must have still been stored in the memory of the computer from months ago. I took it as being the reason for the no-start. Ok $130 later, I've learned that. Car still didn't start.
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| New vs Old |
I then moved on to the fuel pump. I couldn't hear it turning on and I had ran the tank down pretty low a couple times the previous weeks. I figured that's it! So I stubbornly ignored the fact that just because your fuel pump isn't turning on doesn't mean it's bad. In the Bentley is describes how to do this. There is a way to jump the terminals at the relay box but I was not successful there in turning the pump on. I figured to replace it anyway since it has probably never been replaced in 147k miles. I figured it was probably a good time to replace it if the car is chipped and seeing the track. Could've saved me a fuel pump if I were able to activate it at the relay box but I got a smoking deal on the pump and it couldn't hurt to replace.
So he we are, new pump, new knock sensors and still no power getting to the DME to activate the pump and ignition coils. What else could it be? The only CEL I'm getting at this point is 1281 - No power to DME. I did some research and forgot the the crank position sensor (CPS) is a main thoroughfare in the power flow for ignition. A sensor I was aware of but something I had forgot to look at first in my trial and error diagnostic ways.
I finally got what I hope to be a solid test on the CPS sensor. Bentley corrected value for the ohm reading is 540 ohm +- 10%. I got the contacts on there as solid as I could and the meter only read 1 ohm. This has to be it! I know that ohm meter works because I used it to test some injectors.
I'll post a story on the KS replacement as well as the fuel pump replacement after this whole saga gets ironed out. Stay Tuned.
2 comments:
Hmm. That reading is not correct.
First of all, your not using the Com/Ground on the meter (thats why you get 1, or more accurate, open line). secondly your meter is set at the 2000Kohm not 2000ohm which is the correct range for the resistance for the sensor.
Sorry, but I had to correct you on this :)
I've read your blog, and I have to say that you have a very nice car :)
Greetings from a norwegian BMW enthusiast.
oo(|||)(|||)oo
Thanks for the correction. Yeah it would probably help if I knew correctly how to use a volt meter. lol. That sensor was completely dead anyway. Using that same method gave me a result around 700 ohm on the new sensor. In the end that sensor was bad and needed to be replaced, but thanks for the comment.
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